Sauvignon Blanc, the great white grape of France’s central Loire
Valley and Bordeaux has two distinct faces. One is straight up with its crisp,
gooseberry, grassy, green tree fruit character shining through as in Sancerre
or with more tropicality like New Zealand versions. The other, mellowed with some
oak treatment, exemplified in French Pouilly-Fumé or California Fume Blanc.
Both are great aperitifs and extremely food-friendly, but which is better? It’s
strictly a matter of taste, but personally I feel that this variety shows much
better unoaked. In my mind, oak masks and detracts from the varietals distinct
soul of freshness, liveliness and pizzazz making it somewhat fatter. If I want
fat, then I’ll sip an oaked Chardonnay.
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