Marsala

In the western part of Sicily, Italy, a very famous wine is produced. I’m talking about Marsala. This fortified wine (brandy added) is made from Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia and Damaschino for golden and amber styles; and Pignatello, Calabrese, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola for ruby red versions. Types include Fine - 17° alcohol, usually aged less than 1 yr; Superiore - 18° alcohol, aged at least 2 years; Superiore Riserva - 18° alcohol, aged at least 4 years; Vergine Soleras - 18° alcohol, aged at least 5 years and Stravecchio - 18° alcohol, aged at least 10 years. Not as popular here in North America for straight up drinking, it is used most often in cooking. I’m sure you’re aware of its most well known dish, Veal Marsala.

Ripasso

In northeast Italy in Valpolicella country, they produce a wine that’s very interesting. It’s called “Ripasso”. A standard Valpolicella, made mainly from Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara (trend is to use less) and several other varieties, is put on the dried skins of Amarone and refermented. The resulting wine falls somewhere between a Valpolicella and Amarone in character. Taking on many of the nuances of Amarone, it’s richer and more powerful with higher alcohol. It was the Italian producer Masi who came up with the concept back in 1964 in a wine called “Campofiorin. Today, may producers create this style of wine and it is very popular because it’s not as expensive as Amarone, but still provides much of its character.

2009 Amarone

I recently returned from northeast Italy where I tasted all the 2009 Amarone that are just being released into the market. Although way to early and almost impossible to tell what these wines will be like as they need lots of time to evolve, here are my first impressions. The fruit structure is good with lots of richness. There are plenty of typical balsamic notes in the wines. There seemed to be less variability between sub-regions. Alcohol levels seemed to be a little higher. I would have liked the wines to possess a little more acid to help elevate the fruit, which makes me wonder about longevity. Overall, I feel they will be powerful, but easier drinking than the ‘08s. It will certainly be interesting to see how the ‘09s pan out

Methods of Harvesting Grapes

There are two methods of harvesting ripe wine grapes. “Mechanical” harvesting utilizes a tractor that goes over the rows of vines shaking everything off of them. Not only healthy grapes fall off onto the trays beneath it, but bad grapes, bugs, animal residue, twigs, branches, etc., so an intense selection process must take place at the winery. This method is fast, economical and used for commercial wines. A better method is “hand” harvesting, where people handpick the grapes. Having eyes and brains, we pick only healthy fruit, reducing the selection process at the winery. Generally, quality wines or those grown on rough terrain are picked this way, but because of the labour intensity, are usually more expensive.

Syrah & Shiraz

Confused about the difference between Syrah and Shiraz? The good doctor can set you straight. Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape, viticulturally-speaking. Syrah is the European term for this grape and generally, the wine has more of a focused, peppery, leathery, earthy, black berry character. In the “New World” it’s called Shiraz. Here it possesses all the same descriptors, but has more of a coffee, chocolate note and sometimes tastes a tad sweeter. Occasionally in the “New World”, winemakers will call it Syrah if the wine they’ve produced is more European or “Old World” in style. Both work wonders with spicy robust food, grilled/roasted red meats, gamey dishes and hard seasoned cheeses. Gotta love it!

Malolactic Fermentation

In winemaking, after fermentation is complete, a secondary, natural fermentation happens. It’s called Malolactic Fermentation. Here, harsher malic acid, the kind found in apples, is transformed into softer lactic acid, similar to what’s in milk. ML is especially important for red wine destined for aging and selected whites like Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Aromatic numbers such as Gewurztraminer and Riesling are not usually allowed to undergo ML as they rely heavily on malic acid to enhance their flavour character. Often more detrimental in cooler wine-growing regions than warmer ones, it’s a key process in determining a wine’s structure and balance.   

Opening Bubbly

The holiday season may be over, but bubbly is always in vogue for any celebration. Here’s a tip on how to open it safely. These wines are under a lot of pressure so be careful. Don’t shake them up before hand. Once the wire mesh is off, keep your face away from the top of the bottle and ensure that one hand stays over the closure at all times. You may want to stay away from windows, chandelieres, etc. should the cork get away from you. With one hand, hold the bottle on a 45-degree angle and rotate it around the cork that you’re holding with the other hand. Don’t pull on the cork. As you rotate the bottle around the cork, you’ll feel it start to give way as the pressure within pushes it out. That’s all there is to it. Cheers!