I
recently returned from northeast Italy where I tasted all the 2009 Amarone that
are just being released into the market. Although way to early and almost
impossible to tell what these wines will be like as they need lots of time to
evolve, here are my first impressions. The fruit structure is good with lots of
richness. There are plenty of typical balsamic notes in the wines. There seemed
to be less variability between sub-regions. Alcohol levels seemed to be a
little higher. I would have liked the wines to possess a little more acid to
help elevate the fruit, which makes me wonder about longevity. Overall, I feel
they will be powerful, but easier drinking than the ‘08s. It will certainly be
interesting to see how the ‘09s pan out
Monday, February 4, 2013
Monday, January 21, 2013
Methods of Harvesting Grapes
There
are two methods of harvesting ripe wine grapes. “Mechanical” harvesting
utilizes a tractor that goes over the rows of vines shaking everything off of
them. Not only healthy grapes fall off onto the trays beneath it, but bad
grapes, bugs, animal residue, twigs, branches, etc., so an intense selection
process must take place at the winery. This method is fast, economical and used
for commercial wines. A better method is “hand” harvesting, where people
handpick the grapes. Having eyes and brains, we pick only healthy fruit,
reducing the selection process at the winery. Generally, quality wines or those
grown on rough terrain are picked this way, but because of the labour
intensity, are usually more expensive.
Monday, January 14, 2013
Syrah & Shiraz
Confused
about the difference between Syrah and Shiraz? The good doctor can set you
straight. Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape, viticulturally-speaking. Syrah
is the European term for this grape and generally, the wine has more of a focused,
peppery, leathery, earthy, black berry character. In the “New World” it’s
called Shiraz. Here it possesses all the same descriptors, but has more of a
coffee, chocolate note and sometimes tastes a tad sweeter. Occasionally in the
“New World”, winemakers will call it Syrah if the wine they’ve produced is more
European or “Old World” in style. Both work wonders with spicy robust food,
grilled/roasted red meats, gamey dishes and hard seasoned cheeses. Gotta love
it!
Monday, January 7, 2013
Malolactic Fermentation
In
winemaking, after fermentation is complete, a secondary, natural fermentation
happens. It’s called Malolactic Fermentation. Here, harsher malic acid, the
kind found in apples, is transformed into softer lactic acid, similar to what’s
in milk. ML is especially important for red wine destined for aging and
selected whites like Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Aromatic numbers
such as Gewurztraminer and Riesling are not usually allowed to undergo ML as
they rely heavily on malic acid to enhance their flavour character. Often more
detrimental in cooler wine-growing regions than warmer ones, it’s a key process
in determining a wine’s structure and balance.
Wednesday, January 2, 2013
Opening Bubbly
The holiday season may be over, but bubbly is always in vogue for
any celebration. Here’s a tip on how to open it safely. These wines are under a
lot of pressure so be careful. Don’t shake them up before hand. Once the wire
mesh is off, keep your face away from the top of the bottle and ensure that one
hand stays over the closure at all times. You may want to stay away from
windows, chandelieres, etc. should the cork get away from you. With one hand,
hold the bottle on a 45-degree angle and rotate it around the cork that you’re
holding with the other hand. Don’t pull on the cork. As you rotate the bottle
around the cork, you’ll feel it start to give way as the pressure within pushes
it out. That’s all there is to it. Cheers!
Tuesday, December 25, 2012
The Night Before Christmas
It
was the night before Christmas and Santa was busy. Picking wine presents was
making him dizzy. Wine bottles, corkscrews and books by the dozens. Decanters,
glasses and screwpulls for cousins. Storage equipment, racking and tags. Stuff
for the cellar, maybe even some bags. If feeling inspired, don’t give up hope.
A trip to wine country will help them cope. If feeling confused, here’s what to
do. Gift certificates will always come through. Seminars, tastings, courses and
more. The gift of wine sure ain’t no bore. So remember you this when the big
guy comes calling. Milk and some cookies might not be enthralling. A small
glass of Icewine might just do the trick. To put a big smile on the face of St.
Nick. Happy Holidays!
Monday, December 17, 2012
Port
With the cooler weather here, a small glass of Port seems
enticing. This famous fortified wine from northern Portugal has brandy added to
it during fermentation, increasing the alcohol to around 20%. There are several
distinctions in port. First, most Port is blended and not from a single year.
Secondly, some Port is wood-aged while others are bottle aged. Wood-aged Port
spends the majority of its life in barrel taking on woody characteristics. They
tend to be more elegant and round. Bottle-aged Port spends little time in
barrel and is meant for the long haul in bottle. These guys are much bigger and
sturdier. With the exception of white Port, both styles are sweet, unctuous and
pack quite a punch, so sip sparingly. Enjoy!
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