Cognac vs. Armagnac

Two of the most popular brandies in the world happen to be from France. Cognac is produced just north of Bordeaux and Armagnac south of Bordeaux. Both utilize mainly the Ugni Blanc grape (known in Italy as Trebbiano) along with Folle Blanche and Colombard to a lesser degree. Cognac is double distilled in a Charentais Pot still creating a complex, subtle brandy, while Armagnac is single-distilled in an Alambic Armagnacais still resulting in a fruitier imbibe with a richer nose and more body. Both are aged in French oak, are approximately  40% alcohol by volume and should ideally be sipped out of a small snifter or tulip-shaped glass allowing for more aromatics thus reducing alcoholic aggression. 

Marsala

In the western part of Sicily, Italy, a very famous wine is produced. I’m talking about Marsala. This fortified wine (brandy added) is made from Grillo, Catarratto, Inzolia and Damaschino for golden and amber styles; and Pignatello, Calabrese, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d’Avola for ruby red versions. Types include Fine - 17° alcohol, usually aged less than 1 yr; Superiore - 18° alcohol, aged at least 2 years; Superiore Riserva - 18° alcohol, aged at least 4 years; Vergine Soleras - 18° alcohol, aged at least 5 years and Stravecchio - 18° alcohol, aged at least 10 years. Not as popular here in North America for straight up drinking, it is used most often in cooking. I’m sure you’re aware of its most well known dish, Veal Marsala.

Ripasso

In northeast Italy in Valpolicella country, they produce a wine that’s very interesting. It’s called “Ripasso”. A standard Valpolicella, made mainly from Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara (trend is to use less) and several other varieties, is put on the dried skins of Amarone and refermented. The resulting wine falls somewhere between a Valpolicella and Amarone in character. Taking on many of the nuances of Amarone, it’s richer and more powerful with higher alcohol. It was the Italian producer Masi who came up with the concept back in 1964 in a wine called “Campofiorin. Today, may producers create this style of wine and it is very popular because it’s not as expensive as Amarone, but still provides much of its character.

2009 Amarone

I recently returned from northeast Italy where I tasted all the 2009 Amarone that are just being released into the market. Although way to early and almost impossible to tell what these wines will be like as they need lots of time to evolve, here are my first impressions. The fruit structure is good with lots of richness. There are plenty of typical balsamic notes in the wines. There seemed to be less variability between sub-regions. Alcohol levels seemed to be a little higher. I would have liked the wines to possess a little more acid to help elevate the fruit, which makes me wonder about longevity. Overall, I feel they will be powerful, but easier drinking than the ‘08s. It will certainly be interesting to see how the ‘09s pan out